INTRODUCING OUR NEW STAR FOR THE JUNE ISSUE, DAVID KOMA, A LONDON-BASED DESIGNER WITH GEORGIAN ROOTS. HE HAS BECOME SYNONYMOUS WITH THE ULTRA-BODY-CONTOURING SILHOUETTES, CREATING SCULPTURAL STATEMENT DRESSES INSPIRED BY THE FEMININE FORM. ALONGSIDE THE co*ckTAIL DRESSES THAT PROPELLED THE DESIGNER ONTO THE INTERNATIONAL STAGE, KOMA’S OFFERING HAS EXPANDED TO INCLUDE A FULL RANGE OF OPTIONS, FROM PRECISE DAYWEAR SEPARATES TO BEAUTIFULLY TAILORED OUTERWEAR AND SHOW-STOPPING RED-CARPET GOWNS.
BORN IN TBILISI, GEORGIA, DAVID KOMA DISCOVERED HIS PASSION FOR DRESS DESIGN AT THE YOUNG AGE OF EIGHT. HE STUDIED FINE ART IN ST. PETERSBURG, SHOWCASING HIS FIRST COLLECTION AT THE AGE OF 15. IN 2003, DAVID MOVED TO LONDON TO TAKE UP A PLACE AT THE PRESTIGIOUS CENTRAL SAINT MARTINS, GRADUATING WITH A DISTINCTION IN MA FASHION IN APRIL 2009 UNDER THE MENTORSHIP OF THE LATE PROFESSOR LOUISE WILSON, OBE. STRAIGHT AFTER GRADUATION DAVID KOMA LAUNCHED HIS EPONYMOUS READY-TO-WEAR BRAND AND HAS BEEN AN ACTIVE PARTICIPANT OF LONDON FASHION WEEK EVER SINCE. LET’S FIGURE OUT WHY HIS DRESSES ARE SO HOT, LEARN SOME IMPORTANT FASHION LESSONS AND WELCOME HIM TO OUR COUNTRY.
Your eponymous brand had been worn by pretty much every Hollywood celebrity one can think of. What is the secret of your success?
Thank you. I feel blessed having such an amazing roster of multi-talented women wearing my creations! For me, business success is about knowing your customer. I aim to stay relevant and make sure my collections reflect the modern women and their needs in current times. At the same time, I aim to create luxurious pieces that are timeless. I am always trying to empower women with the clothing I create.
Who is the David Koma woman?
I never design with one specific muse in mind, I just have an idea of multiple characters. Juxtapositions play an important role in the aesthetic of the brand, and I feel that at the heart of the brand Koma Girl is full of contrasts too. She is tough yet sensual, free yet controlled, youthful yet mature – a complex character reflective of modern women. I imagine her as a 21st century femme fatale – strong and confident, with a sophisticated sex appeal.
I am closely familiar with Georgian style as I have Georgian roots as well, and I always admired local designers. I think they have unique fashion soul and taste. What is the secret of this uniqueness, in your opinion?
Georgia is a beautiful place to grow up in. The rich history, the nature of the countryside, the most delicious food! I think the secret is the Georgians’ love for their country which is a constant source of inspiration. For me, it was that environment that started me on my creative journey, the place where I discovered the love for drawing. I often look back to Georgia, including FW17 collection that I dedicated to my motherland.
What or who is your main motivation and support?
My motivation comes from within, I’ve wanted to be a successful designer for as long as I can remember.
The support – my family and my team. I am very lucky to be surrounded by a great support network that all work hard to help me turn my ideas into reality.
Which fashion era fascinates you the most and why?
60’s is the era I often turn to for inspiration. It marked a radical change in clothing styles and attitudes to dressing, a rise of subcultures and experimentation with new and exciting materials. Music and art scene were also experiencing a cultural revolution– it was an era of freedom and fun!
Share with us the creative process, before the launch of a collection.
It all starts with inspiration, mood boards and plenty of sketches. However, the most important stage for me is the fitting process – it takes the longest. Putting your design on a female body and adjusting the garment until it is perfect in every detail and with every turn. I pride myself on creating garments that are exceptionally fitted. I can make and remake many iterations of the same dress until I am absolutely happy with it. Once the casting is done, we fit it on the chosen model again over two days and only then it is ready to strut down the catwalk.
Now, as you have reached the peak of your career, what would you say to eight-year-old self about your dreams?
Follow your dreams and manifest your reality. Everything you can think of, you can do.
In 2009, following your graduation from Central Saint Martins, you launched your brand and shortly thereafter, Beyonce donned one of your dresses for the MTV Music Awards. This must have been an important achievement to be proud of. Please share with us your emotions when it happened.
I have been very lucky to work with Beyonce right from the start of my career. It is exceptionally exciting seeing my looks on such a talented woman at a pinnacle of success. Despite many years of seeing Beyonce in my looks, every time is just as thrilling – like seeing the jaw dropping opening performance look for last year’s Oscars. I am very grateful for over a decade of her support and absolutely love to work with her and her team.
Where was your fascination for dressing the female form born?
I always felt inspired by women – but not just by their physical form. Women are the most unique and powerful creatures in the world. Their ability to give birth, love unconditionally, and build a home. They are truly fascinating!
We need a fashion advice from you, for beginners and dreamers, something you wish you knew back then, when you started.
I was very lucky to study under Professor Louise Wilson at Central Saint Martins, so I will use the mantra she used to teach us, just without the expletives. ‘Believe in yourself. Stay up all night. Work outside of your habits. Know when to speak up. Collaborate. Don’t procrastinate. Keep learning. Find inspiration everywhere. Trust your gut. Ask for help. Learn to take criticism. Think about all the possibilities.’
What challenges did you face launching your brand?
Talent is not enough, that’s something you learn fast. I was very lucky to have a lot of support around me, a lot of business guidance. In the UK, we are very fortunate to have British Fashion Council and their various programmes including NEWGEN and Vogue Fashion Fund, that provides financial support on top of business advice on how to grow and develop young brands.
What personal experience did you gain during your tenure as a Creative Director of Mugler in 2013?
Manfred Thierry Mugler has been an inspirational figure on my artistic journey ever since I was a child. I dreamt about being part of his vision and his house since I started designing as a teenager. During my tenure at Mugler, getting the access to the vast archive of his work was one of the highlights! My favourite pastime was watching hours of footage from his shows. Manfred Thierry’s work was an ultimate balance of provocation and artform. His ground- breaking sculptural designs, unparalleled garment construction and use of innovative materials are forever inspiring!
Which designers inspired you in your youth?
Apart from Thierry Mugler, there have been so many other incredible designers that inspired me - Azzedine Alaïa, Pierre Cardin, Geoffrey Beene and Gianni Versace, to mention a few.
The SS23 collection was mesmerising. The nature and urban were combined. Which piece of the collection is your favourite?
I absolutely love all the pieces with feathers – they make for a beautiful design element to work with, creating dramatic and voluminous silhouettes in a nearly lightweight way. The movement of the plumes perfectly mimic underwater world that the collection was inspired by.
Crystallised starfish, oyster shells, octopus tentacles... What was behind the idea of your SS23 creation?
Believe it or not the idea came to me while walking to my studio in Shoreditch, a cool urban spot in East London. I saw a petrol spill on the pavement and the iridescent patterns that it created, and that made me daydream about the underwater world. During my research, I came across Dr. Sylvia Earle and her Tektite II team, the first all-female divers to spend fourteen days living underwater in 1970. The way she described the glow and sparkle of the sea creatures, inspired me to re-create them in a crystallised form.
Let’s talk about your fascinating FW23 collection, which I personally could not look away from. The silhouettes are so strong and attractive! As we know the inspiration behind the collection is Marlen Dietrich. How did it all start, and what is it about her that inspired you?
I started with one of my ever-present muses – the icon of the 20th century, Marlene Dietrich. She was a pioneer of androgynous dressing, often wearing tuxedos. Her experimentation with femininity and masculinity was rather radical at the time. Inspired by her, the collection became a study of traditional male and female wardrobe elements – hence you see the tailoring, shirting and ties next to tulle skirts and flower embroidered dresses.
Smoking motifs, Marlboro theme, shades of lipstick, bejewelled cigarette, and of course, Hollywood red carpet reinterpretation at FW23 show. It looks like paying tribute, but to what?
It’s all a homage to the eras past. The red lipstick and red carpet are a reference to the old school Hollywood glamour. The cigarettes are a reference to the late 1920’s, when a woman who smoked in public was considered vulgar and risked a warning from the police. The suffrage movement of the time drew attention to many gender inequalities – not just voting. Smoking became a visible symbol of defiance as they called cigarettes "torches of freedom."
If you would be able to describe your latest collection as a feeling, which one would it be?
Feeling of rebellion – defying the norms, stepping outside the box, being strong and courageous.
Let’s talk about the amazing event dedicated to you, which took place at Emporium. It was an incredible chance for all fans of your brand in Baku to meet you in person. What is your impression of the event?
The event at Emporium went incredibly well and it was such a beautiful experience meeting fans of the brand! I received the warmest welcome and had a chance to speak to so many Koma Girls. Having our FW23 show streamed on the big screen, surrounded by the pieces from the collection created a great atmosphere. The DJ was fantastic, his upbeat compositions added to the fun party vibe. I have to thank team Emporium, they organised a wonderful soiree and have been the most welcoming hosts! I got a chance to meet the store staff the day before the event and talk to them about the collection: the inspiration behind it and the garments they are stocking. I felt grateful for their love for my brand and understanding of my aesthetic and vision. I haven’t been to the store before, so it was a great chance to see the full offering. I loved their womenswear selection!
As we know, it is your first time in Baku, how was your trip overall? Please share your experience.
I fell in love with your beautiful city. It is full of wonderful contrasts: the supremely modern and magnificently historic side by side. I loved how Aglay stone is used across so many facades – it makes the city look pleasantly uniform. The people are open and very warm, many times I felt that I knew the people I just met for years. One of my highlights, as I expected was the Heydar Aliyev Centre designed by my favourite Zaha Hadid. I saw a beautiful carpet collection there and fell in love with one inspired by palace of Shaki Khans. The way that light and colour was interpreted into the weave was truly beautiful. Other memorable moments included having the traditional samovar tea experience in the old town, across from the Maiden Tower, enjoying the panoramic views at Manzara restaurant after we arrived via a funicular, and the super industrial Unbar club.
BLITZ
Place, which makes you happy?
London. It is the city that made my
dreams come true. I came to study fashion here, started my own brand. Its diverse character inspires me every day.
Favourite dish?
Freshly baked bread – I love all iterations of it from across the world. From baguette to tandir.
Last song you downloaded?
BIA – London
What does a person need to be happy?
Their family.
Favourite animal?
My one – Ruby, the miniature pincher.
